Monoski Directory How to Tune Your Monoski
Tuning your monoski is very similar to tuning a pair of skis or snowboard. If you don't want to go to a shop,
the best thing to do is to get the tools needed to do it yourself. There are numerous little tune kits on
the market that have most of what you will need.Below the tool list are some helpful tuning links.
I have included most of what you will need to know to tune your monoski properly but tuning is a science
so I'll link off-site to some good tuning resources.Needs List:
Monoski Vise
First, you're going to have to be able to secure your' monoski to a workbench. There are a few different
vises out there, but this style has become the standard for any monoski or snowboard.
Wax Remover
You must clean your base prior to doing any work on it. Dirt and old wax must be removed or base welds
won't stick.
Repair Candle
Use to repair base gouges.
Sandvik Metal Scraper
Hold under repair candle to eliminate flame and drip into hole and use to clean scrape excess material
from the repair.
Planer
Use in a linear movement from tip to tail to remove the remainder of the repair candle material.
Structure Brush
To break the suction to the snow you have to have base structure. This brush can be used lightly or firmer
for a deeper structure. Preferably, get your base flat ground at a tuning shop.
6" or 8" Chrome File
Used for detuning and to sharpen your side edges and base edges along with your edge bevel tools
Spring Clamp
You're going to need a clamp to hold your file to the bevel guides pictured below.
Edge Bevel Tools
These are some of the many tools you
can use to bevel your edges. Many tools are designed for this purpose and most, like this one below,
and are more consumer oriented with a universal application with
angle tuning but they're not as precise as the guides pictured above.
Diamond Files
These are made in different grits and are used to polish your edges after you have sharpened them with
the chrome file. Using these files decreases resistance by putting on an ulta-fine edge polish, kinda
like waxing your edges.
Waxing Iron
It sure is nice to use an iron like this but any flat iron will do. Standard irons have steam holes that
trap dirt so if buying a cheapo iron get a dry iron without the holes.
Plastic Scraper
 Sharp
plastic scrapers are required to take of excess wax from your base. Remember to keep 'em sharp!
Emery Paper
Keep this emery paper flat on your workbench to sharpen your scraper.
Scotchbrite Pads
The magic pads. You'll need these for softening edges, deburring plastic scrapers, and finishing your
hot-wax into your base. There are numerous types ranging from fine to coarse.
Tuning Tool Resources
Swix is a manufacturer of fine waxes and tuning
equipment.
Toko is a manufacturer of fine waxes and tuning
equipment.
Tognar Toolworks caries all the tools you will need
to tune your' monoski.
Tuning Links
The Art of Tuning
Get Answers About Tuning
Lateral Pressure "Dope"
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Tool pics courtesy of TOKO,
Tognar Tool Works, and
Wintersteiger
Tuning Your Monoski
 This is
a base grinder and is used to grind your base. Base structure is needed to break the suction of your base
from the snow.
The wetter the conditions, the more open or deep the structure needs to be to channel the water down your
base, kinda like a tire tread moves water away from the tire so it can grip. This image represents a stone
grind pattern for wet snow called a crosshatch. For the consumer tuning at home, you'll need the structure
brush to create a linear pattern. I recommend that you ski your monoski with a sharp 90 degree edge
with no bevel on the base or sidewall to learn how your monoski responds so you can learn how your monoski
rides best. Different monoskis ski differently because of their design and the tune put on them from the
factory. (Ski your first day on your new mono with a small pocket file so you can do some minor
tuning on the hill.) First off, you'll need to detune your tip and tail. You will probably want
to bevel your base also, but first focus on how your monoski turns from where the tip turns upwards. Does
it feels like it hooks really hard uphill? Maybe it just pulls uphill a little too much. Pay attention to
the tail also, does it release out of the turn smooth, or does it track really hard, not breaking out of
a carve regardless how hard you push it? To make the tip or the tail track less you need to detune it, or
dull the edge. Using your file starting from the base side move the file blade towards to tip or tail in
a rounded motion, going from the base to the side just softening the edge to where it doesn't feel sharp.
If the tip is really sharp, start about 3" to 4" down from the tip slope and smooth it out, for the tail
start 2" to 3" from the tail taper or slope and smooth it out. This should eliminate the hard pulling or
tracking at the ends of your monoski.
The base edge bevel determines how quick the reaction time is to get to the edge. A .05 degree bevel
will feel just a little slower to the edge than running a straight 90 degree edge with no base bevel.
You do not need to tune your edge at the same bevel from tip to tail. If the front of your board seems to
be really grabby when on edge and wants to pull you hard into the turn, but your monoskis waist is holding
fine and so is the tail, then maybe you'll want to try a 1 degree to a 2 degree base bevel from the tip
to the point where it feels like it's pulling too hard up hill. This will soften the edge reation
time and will make it feel smoother. If this works and the reation time to the edge feels nice to you, but
when you get on edge now, it feels like it wants to slip out from under you or if it feels like there is not
enough edge hold, you can put a bevel on the side of the edge.
 So if you want
more edge regardless a standard extremely sharp race tune will have a .05 degree base bevel and a 3 degree
side bevel which is an 87.5 degree edge...this is extremely sharp and with a torsionally stiff monoski
you should have no problem holding on ice. once you understand how an edge bevel feels on your monoski
you should be able to get it to perform in the conditions that are most prevelant in your area.
Once your base and edges are prepped, it's time to wax.
There are numerous paste waxes and rub on waxes out there that are easy to apply. Most come with applicators
or you can use a scotchbrite pad. The best to was is to hotwax.
You'll need an iron, hotwax, plastic scraper, and a scotchbrite pad. Start by dripping the wax on to the
base making sure the iron does not smoke. (A smoking iron will change your waxes effective temperature and
can also burn your base.)
After dripping the wax on the base, iron it on, making sure to smooth it out
over the entire base. AFter it's coated, let it sit for about 30 minutes. Now your ready to scape it off.
The base when heated accepts the wax into the structure so don't worry about scraping all the wax off. Use
a sharp plastic scraper, scrapeing the entire length of the board from tip to tail. After about 3 passes,
clean your scraper and sharpen it on the sharpening paper. A few passes will do, then with one finger and
a scotchbrite pad run one pass along the sharpened scraper to remove any burrs from sharpening. This will
keep the scraper from scrathing your base. Now repeat until most of the wax is gone. Use a scotchbrite
pad (that is dedicated to waxing) to finish of the base from tip to tail, in linear strokes...oh baby!
There are also numerous brushes for finishing your freshly waxed base from nylon pictured here to fine
monofilament, brass, horsehair and combinations of these materials.
If you want the job to go faster, get a roto brush and use a drill. Don't touch your base now that it's
ready to glide, oils from your hands will create hot spots and will slow you down.
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